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Auburn Umbrella

Pocket-Sized Problem, Billion-Dollar Solution

By DU Beat July 5, 2026

For “The Business Model Hiding in Your Jeans”: Women’s jeans pockets are 48% shorter than men’s, and it’s not a fashion afterthought. Here’s the economic logic that turned a design flaw into a billion-dollar industry.

A question to all the women reading this: Can most or even any of your pairs of jeans, trousers, or lowers fit a phone, keys, and your wallet in them?
Probably not…Because more often than not, men can fit a phone, wallet, keys, and probably even a small novel into their pockets, while women are stuck with pockets that feel less like pockets and more like decoration. And if you’ve ever wondered why, well, this is less of a coincidence and more of a deliberate design choice.

Back in 2018, data journalism outlet The Pudding measured the pockets of 80 pairs of 32-inch men’s and women’s blue jeans across 20 major brands. And here’s what they found: Women’s front pockets were, on average, 48% shorter and 6.5% narrower than men’s. Only 40% of women’s front pockets could fit a smartphone. And just 10% could fit a woman’s own hand.

But why is this so, and since when?

In medieval times, both men and women had “pockets” tied around the waist and hidden beneath their clothing. But in the 17th century, men’s jackets and pants were adorned with pockets sewn directly into the garment. Women, meanwhile, were still stuck with tie-on pouches strapped under their petticoats.

Toward the end of the 18th century, women’s fashion changed: waistlines crept up, silhouettes slimmed, and pockets shrunk, sometimes becoming nonexistent. Famed fashion designer Christian Dior further cemented the patriarchy of pockets in 1954, allegedly saying, “Men have pockets to keep things in; women, for decoration.”

As a consequence, the purse was born. Reticules, as they were called, were minuscule bags that women carried in their hands rather than on their hips. As the century ticked on, they became more elaborately decorated, and hence became a status symbol. And this was “the beginning of the end”

The beginning of the handbag industry, the end of choice….I mean pockets.

This consequence soon became a thriving cause, strong enough to keep the design as it is and the pockets well non-functional and petite. Just think about it. If our jeans can’t hold our phone, wallet, or keys, we need somewhere else to put them. And that creates space for an entirely different market to thrive… handbags.

Just to give you a sense of scale, the global handbag market was valued at roughly $86 billion in 2025. And this is not something that emerged in anonymity; a large chunk of it grew around the economics of manufactured need. There’s a well-known business strategy around this model called the razor-and-blades model: sell the base product cheap, then make your real money on a complementary product the customer has to keep buying. For example, Gillette sells cheap razors and expensive blades.

Pockets and handbags run on the same logic, with one twist. Nobody needs to lower the price of the jeans; they just need it to fail at a basic job. Which doesn’t lower the demand for jeans; people still need the jeans, right? What it does do, though, is generate demand for something else entirely, a bag to carry what the pocket won’t.

The more useful economic explanation is that once a design constraint creates a dependent market, there is no market incentive for the original manufacturer to fix it. A denim brand has no financial reason to give you a pocket that fits your phone; doing so doesn’t sell more jeans. The cost of the small pocket is anyway externalised; it’s paid by you, in the form of a bag you now have to carry.

So in an illogically-logical manner, this creates a pink tax of sorts. The well-known pattern where women pay more than men for near identical products. A US government study of 800 gender-specific products found personal care items priced 13% higher for women, accessories 7% higher, and clothing 8% higher, according to the World Economic Forum.

Economists have a formal name for this: third-degree price discrimination, where a seller charges different prices to different groups for essentially the same good, sorted by an attribute like gender rather than by production cost.

In this case, though, it is a little different; nobody per se is charging more for a woman’s pair of jeans; they’re just subtly removing a utility that should come with it, forcing women to spend twice, just to solve a problem that fabric simply solves for men. Towards the end, leading to men paying less than women for the same utility.

Now, you could argue that women simply “prefer” handbags. And sure, maybe we do now. But it’s funny how preference and necessity have a way of blending into each other when necessity is manufactured first.

Arshia Sharma
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Image credits: The Pudding

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Beyond the Binary of Pink and Blue

By DU Beat June 28, 2026

By challenging traditional binary norms, gender-fluid fashion has become a powerful form of self-expression. From the rock style of the Rolling Stones to Harry Styles’ Vogue cover and the Met Gala’s “Camp” theme, the boundaries between menswear and womenswear continue to blur. Rooted in LGBTQ+ history, non-binary activism, and changing cultural attitudes, fashion is steadily redefining what self-expression can look like.

“Slightly peaked shoulder jacket, ruffled blouse, and stacked heel boots”

Can you recall which heroine rocked this look on stage?

Chances are, you can’t, because it wasn’t a heroine at all! It was the famous American singer-songwriter Prince (Prince Rogers Nelson) in the iconic ‘Purple Rain’ video. Which leaves us wondering, does clothing really have to be gendered? Are beliefs such as “blue for the boys and pink for the girls” natural, or are they constructed carefully by society to help us pigeonhole ourselves, unconsciously pushing our creativity into a prison of “log kya kahenge?”

Prince performs on stage wearing a sequinned outfit and playing an electric guitar. — Prince challenged gender norms through his bold fashion choices.

When we think about fashion, we often associate it with creativity and individuality. Yet, when it comes to gender expression, these ideals tend to disappear. For the queer community, fashion has long been a form of self-expression, resistance, and communication. By challenging the traditional male/female binary, genderqueer fashion pushes us to rethink why we assign gender to clothing in the first place.

“Genderqueer fashion represents the avant-garde of contemporary fashion,” says Bliss Foster, a millennial fashion critic. Unfortunately, it continues to face boundaries that dictate what men and women are “supposed” to wear.

Stereotypes, especially gender stereotypes, box an individual’s choices into socially acceptable norms, discouraging them from experimenting. A common example is the normalisation of the colours blue and pink for boys and girls, which can often lead to discrimination among young children.

Clothing, as one of our primary forms of visual communication, is deeply rooted in this traditional gender binary. Cultural stereotypes associate masculinity with utility, power, and rationality, while femininity is associated with decoration and frivolity, creating rigid fashion norms that influence how people dress. True genderqueer fashion seeks to disrupt this by incorporating elements traditionally associated with femininity into masculine clothing, thereby challenging the stereotype.

The fashion industry and queer community have never been alien to each other. Fashion has long served as a tool for expressing queer identities, including those of non-binary individuals. Shaun Cole’s “Dandies: Fashion and Finesse in Art and Culture” and Elizabeth Wilson’s “Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity” have examined the intertwined history of queer aesthetics and fashion’s role in expressing and exploring sexuality and gender.

Queer fashion has a much longer history than most people realise. The deconstruction of gender stereotypes regarding clothing started around the 1920s when pants for women began to be tolerated in sports and some limited activities such as cycling and horse riding. The rising wave of gender politics and the sexual revolution dates back to the 1960s, which was swiftly followed by the 1970s era where questions regarding gender stereotypes were seriously raised, dismantling those stereotypes gradually in the process.

People in colourful 70s outfits pose together. — The Disco era helped bring gender-fluid fashion and bold self-expression into the mainstream.

As feminist and gay rights movements gained momentum, the fashion industry reacted to these movements. Alongside these movements, popular culture also played an important role. David Bowie helped introduce gender fluidity into mainstream fashion, while the Disco era familiarised these ideas amongst the masses. Prince is also considered an LGBTQ+ icon to this day for defying gender stereotypes and pushing the boundaries of sexuality. For his admirers at that time, his difference and willingness to transgress boundaries made him stand out.

Similarly, and even slightly beforehand, The Rolling Stones used their own rock style to experiment with fashion and its boundaries, often choosing to wear colourful jumpsuits and ruffled shirts. Along with this, documented examples from the punk movement and the reintroduction of men’s skirts or divided skirts by the Japanese deconstructionist designers have also had their part in de-gendering fashion around the world. It was during this time when we saw the rise of trans and non-binary activists calling for gender-neutral fashion not only as a fashionable renaissance but also as an “anti-violence imperative”.

In recent years, we have witnessed a significant rise in acceptance of fashion that goes beyond the scope of gender binary. This progressive approach has allowed generations of people to express themselves and their identities more freely, most visibly through art, music, and, importantly, fashion.

From David Bowie to Harry Styles, the landscape of gender and how we perceive it in the world of fashion is changing drastically. Stereotypes are being gradually eradicated as consumers bother less about standard gender labels and adopt a more fluid approach to individual expression.

Harry Styles wears a light blue ruffled dress. — Harry Styles’ 2020 Vogue cover that sparked conversations about fashion and identity.

David Bowie performs on stage in a glitter striped jumpsuit.

In 2016, actor and musician Jaden Smith could be seen participating in a Louis Vuitton campaign showcasing their newest collection. In this campaign he can be seen wearing a skirt whilst posing with other female models in similar outfits. Not long after that, Harry Styles featured on the cover of Vogue in 2020 in a pale blue, lace-trimmed dress underneath a black tuxedo jacket, both by Gucci. However, there was significant backlash for both, raising controversies around gender-related concepts (especially masculinity) and whether events like these fell under the umbrella of men appropriating women’s clothing.

While these examples were still perceived with scepticism among older millennials, what does Gen Z say about all this? Gen Z has introduced a unique set of consumer behaviours due to their digital inclination and favouring fast, seamless experiences. Moreover, keeping in mind their high levels of acceptance, these young consumers are ditching old labels and finding new ways to express themselves outside of typical gender norms. They are arguably the most diverse generation yet, as they are also far more comfortable with shifting views of identity than older generations have been.

The year 2019 was particularly important for de-gendering fashion and the rise of acceptance for fashion that stands out of the box. Be it the 2019 Vogue’s annual Met Gala theme or the #DeGenderFashion that gained traction and eventually turned into a social movement, the year was revolutionary for fashion and gender identity, especially for Gen Z.

In 2019, the Met Gala theme was chosen to be ‘Camp: Notes on Fashion’, which not only went beyond the convention but also provided the attendees with extravagant creative freedom regarding their fashion choices. This particular year was a chance for celebrities to push the boundaries of the binary and try pieces they perhaps would normally shy away from. Looking specifically at the male attendees, many chose to incorporate sequins and glitter into their looks, embracing an exaggerated version of their typical outfit choices.

Another notable moment was the “Clothes Have No Gender” talk delivered by the gender non-conforming activist, performer, and writer Alok Vaid-Menon at the Business of Fashion (#BoFVoices) stage. This later gave rise to #DeGenderFashion, which took the shape of a social movement. In that talk, they called for a complete de-gendering of the fashion and beauty industries, noting that “any article of clothing should be for anyone who wants to wear it, regardless of their gender.”

Alok Vaid-Menon poses wearing makeup, jewellery, and gender-fluid fashion. — Alok Vaid-Menon champions the idea that clothes have no gender, advocating for a more inclusive fashion industry.

The idea of menswear and womenswear has been gradually eroding in recent years, giving much more room for individuality. People are no longer restricting themselves to the clothing limitations of their own gender but instead feeling free to express themselves however they choose. This has allowed the fashion industry to evolve, with many designers creating unisex and fluid collections with high-street brands following suit.

As this evolution continues, scholars such as Connell and Messerschmidt, argue that society has the capacity to deconstruct gender binaries and criticise hegemonic masculinity, encouraging brands to be more diverse and portray accurate representations of consumers. As emerging generations reject rigid gender standards, the fashion industry must adapt. It should strive to create a place where customers can take control of their bodies and accept their identities, regardless of appearance.

Ultimately, fashion has always been more than just clothing; it is a reflection of identity, culture, and self-expression. Every generation grows up with its own set of norms regarding who should wear what, only to challenge them again. Perhaps the true legacy of gender-fluid fashion lies in reminding us that the gender binary was drawn by people in the first place. And if it was drawn, it can be redrawn.

Image Source: British GQ, Getty Images

Chandrani

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Riches, Fashion, and the Met Gala: Who and What gets to be Art?

By DU Beat May 7, 2026

The Met Gala 2026 positioned fashion as art, and inherently power, with Indian craftsmanship and cultural identity finding itself widely embodied, while simultaneously exposing tensions around elitism, Western dominance, and the limits of celebrating art within exclusive global spaces.

The Met Gala, with all its consistent A-listers’ attendance, best and worst dressed lists, and never-before-and-after-seen outfits, also functions as a charity event and fundraiser for The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. It prides itself in being one of the biggest fundraisers for art in the world, raising unparalleled sums of 8 figures every year with an increment in collections every year. This year, it was co-chaired by Beyoncé, Nicole Kidman, Venus Williams, and Anna Wintour, with a theme of “Costume Art”.

The theme, like each passing year, becomes a focal point of discussion primarily as a test of whether the said attendees adhered to it or not, but also how far they were successful in elevating it. These themes ‘attempt’ to explore different niches of the fashion world, from last year’s “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” to the iconic and fan favourite “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination”. The dress code, ‘fashion is art’, is, like other themes, extremely open-ended and broad, which then results in showcasing the vibrancy of garments as the brainchild of plethora of designers at the red carpet.

This year’s exhibition, “Costume Art”, is paired with the dress code “Fashion is Art”. Current curator Andrew Bolton says, “The ‘Costume Art’ exhibition explores ‘the centrality of the dressed body’ by pairing garments with paintings, sculptures and objects spanning 5,000 years of art.”

He adds that

what connects every curatorial department … is fashion, or the dressed body; even the nude is never naked. It’s always inscribed with cultural values and ideas.”

Amidst this exploration of culture and ideas, the presence of Indian celebrities at the Met, like always remains crucial; all hopeful eyeballs are on them, which means that they have the pressure to meet the high standards that not only fans but even an average Indian internet lurker has on them. This certain way is generally associated with a prideful representation of Indian culture. In recent years, we have become more vocal on how the fashion world of the West takes inspiration from Indian ornaments and designs and yet chooses to ignorantly not acknowledge or give credit to it and make it their own, what we often term as cultural appropriation.

With the advent of increasing acceptance we have come to recognise that fashion is not just clothes or accessories but represents power structures and thereby is equally political. The only way then is to make the world our stage and own and preserve our art.

This Met Gala saw the attendance of various Indian celebrities, with the likes of Karan Johar, Isha Ambani, Ananya Birla, Sudha Reddy, and Manish Malhotra, among others; it is appreciative that all of them chose to pay homage to the artisans of India: Karan Johar’s outfit was designed by Manish Malhotra and styled by Eka Lakhani; it carries Raja Ravi Varma’s imagery across a hand-painted ensemble, with zardozi borders, three-dimensional pillars, lotuses and swans, and a hand-painted jacket lining. Johar, while praising the artist, said, “Raja Ravi Varma gave India its most enduring images of itself.”

Karan Johar dons Ravi Verma’s painting in a Manish Malhotra ensemble

Isha Ambani, who has now become a global figure with her frequent presence in events like the Academy Awards and the Vogue Fashion Fund Awards coupled with the publicity of the Ambani family events, wore a custom-made sari which brings together historical references from ancient Indian frescoes, with the sari border featuring hand-painted Pichwai-inspired motifs. The blouse of her outfit was embedded with her mother’s jewellery inventory. Representing realism in art, she wore a mango sculpture created by an Indian artist, Subodh Gupta, 20 years ago.

Isha Ambani’s costume features steel, sari, and a showpiece mango

Gauravi Kumari, the princess of Jaipur, was also seen wearing her family heirloom, the chiffon sari of the then fashion icon and her great-grandmother Maharani Gayatri Devi. Emphasising the regionalistic sentiments, Kumari wore a pink sari to represent the colour of her city. The same was also carried by her brother Sawai Padmanabh Singh, who stated, “The idea was to bring Rajasthani craftsmanship to the forefront in a way that felt authentic to me.”

Gauravi Kumari and her brother Sawai Padmanabhan Singh at the Met Gala

Manish Malhotra, in a move that is getting wide appraisal, wore a garment representing Mumbai with a special ode to all his craftsmen. The outfit features renowned Mumbai locations, such as Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, Gateway of India, and so on. The garment features many forms of embroidery-zardozi, chikankari, and kasab to name a few, which were endered in white and ivory.

This representation is targeted at getting much-needed discourse on authentic Indian craftsmanship. This pride is newfound because we as Indians carry with us a deeply entrenched colonial baggage and have been at the receiving end of the ‘West is Best’ narrative. India has in the recent past seen vast westernisation of its elite, possibly beginning from the creation of the bhadralok identity, where the upper-class upper-caste elite exclusively associated themselves with European and later on American brands, as they were seen as the epitome of artistry during its time as a colony but was unable to overcome it even after independence.

One association that puts a question mark on the event’s genuineness of promoting “art” is Jeff Bezos, along with his wife Lauren Sanchez, being the primary sponsors of the event with around 10 million dollars in donations. This collaboration is questionable because it lays a doubt on whether they are unfeigned patrons of art or doing this just because they have the means to do so, in order to gain social capital in the world of art and fashion, which tends to be gatekept, especially given the worldwide protests surrounding exploitation of workers and increasing wealth inequality. At the centre of this conversation is situated the costume embodied by Lauren Sanchez, which critics have likened to an “average American prom dress”.

Sanchez-Bezos dons as Schiaparelli (as never seen before)

However, in between this elitism and “fashion for the rich” are ongoing efforts to challenge this elitism and exclusionism, particularly by the Mayor of New York City, Zohran Mamdani who chose not to attend the event highlighting the question of “affordability”—why there is an us v. them attitude of the privileged in terms of access to fashion.

When the preparations for the Met Gala were underway, labour unions from across the USA staged an anti-Met Gala fashion show in the Meatpacking District of Manhattan. “The Met Gala tells a story about who matters, who gets celebrated,” said April Verrett, president of the Service Employees International Union. “And we decided to make ourselves the protagonists.” Amazon delivery drivers, warehouse workers and former Washington Post staffers walked down the runway, flexing in outfits by local designers while the audience held up cards that read “You Can’t Buy Cool” and “Labour Is Art”.

Whenever I, through my computer screen, examine the looks of the Met Gala by channelling my inner Miranda Priestly. I always ask, do we really need a Met Gala once every year to take pride in our art and then forget about it? Why can’t we have our own? Shouldn’t this celebration not be restricted to only those artisans that manage to reach the clientele of celebrities but also those local uncles and bhaiyas that we see at our local bazaars? Is being cool and endearing restricted to only a few billionaires and celebrities?

Image Credits: Instagram

Divyanshi Dusad

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Life in Looks | Vogue (DU edition)

By Rubani Sandhu September 13, 2023

Let’s take a trip down the memory lane and explore different facets of fashion in the post-independence era in the most celebrated pedagogical campus of India.

Delhi University, the most prestigious university in the country also boasts of hosting a wildly diverse student body. The colleges of DU spread all over the national capital have for over a hundred years produced a pedigree of students which have gone on to excel in all sorts of fields. This diversity in culture, ethnicity and identities has facilitated the existence of a vibrant fashion culture in the university.

Umberella shaped sorts of Kurtas without cuts on the side. They were pretty trendy but walking and running around in those was a bit arduous. We paired these with tight pajamas. In the 60s very few ‘mod’ women wore pants. Most girls either made a simple plait or huge high buns with puff stuffed within”, an alumna of IPCW, Batch’62.

Owing to her back to back hits with Junglee, Bluff Master, Ayee Miyan ki Belan, Padosan and plenty more in the 60s, Saira Banu and her style became a cult classic for the youngsters. Her high placed classic bun with a middle partitioned hairline, dramatic winged eyeliner and tight fitted sarees were celebrated and greatly imitated by most young women back then. Almost everyone wanted to look like her, dress like her.

Popular footwear included Canvas sneakers, T-strap sandals with tiny heels, one toe flats from Janpath or the basic slip-ons from Bata. Archives from websites of DU colleges like LSR and Miranda shows women practicing their P.T drill in tight fitted suits with thin strap slippers on.

By late 60s several new all-women’s colleges had been established, thereby bolstering the admission rate of women into Delhi University. This gave space for their style to acquire a bolder and more liberal facet.

Fashion meant a lot to us back then. With tight fitted shirts, churidar pajamas, full length wrap around skirts, pleated pants and bouffant hairdos with backcombed puffs, we all put our best foot forward when dressing up for college. We didn’t wear revealing clothes but our tops and kurtas were tight fitting”, shares an LSR alumna, batch’1967.

Dr Prabha Jain, an alumna of Lady Hardinge Medical College, MBBS Batch’72 recounts,

As far as I can recall, my college, unlike other DU colleges had certain restrictions on what we all chose to wear – especially the anatomy department. Most girls barring a few wore either sarees or kurta and salwar. Our suits were either sleeveless or tightly fitted, but were all cloaked under our Doctor’s Apron. Our go to shopping place was Karol Bagh – going to Chandni Chowk seemed too daunting because of the rush, and CP was too expensive for us back then”.

“Everything flared” was definitely the fashion tagline of the 70s. This decade had the youngsters drooling over bell bottoms and bell sleeve printed tops. Neetu Singh, Zeenat Aman and Sharmila Tagore were the biggest fashion icons of this age. Dimple Kapadia’s cropped polka dots white front tie top in Bobby resulted in the print being labeled as the ‘hallmark of 70s Fashion’. Denim was formally introduced in the same decade through Veeru (Dharmendra) and Jai’s (Amitabh Bachan) denim jeans and shirts in the blockbuster – Sholay. Nonetheless denim jeans in the common population only became a staple towards the late 80s.

We wore extremely deep cut bell bottoms with embroidered patterns at the lower helm. Styled those with cropped tops with a shrug on top, if not cropped then they would be longer. We occasionally also wore corduroy knee length shorts, not often. Pre-made dhotis with short kurtis and chiffon duppattas had gotten pretty famous. Chand Baliyan, dainty neck pieces, big buns and winged eye liners – we have done and loved them all”, says Ranjana Kohli, a Maitreyi College alumna, Batch’74.

By end 70s/early 80s, owing to it’s pan-India nature, DU had definitely developed itself into a melting pot for different cultures, identities and even fashion styles. Student from different parts of the country, from different backgrounds, ethnicities, elite boarding schools, public schools, rich and not-so rich families came together in one city. This facilitated interaction of faiths and ideologies, and was one major factor behind the fact that Delhi became “mod” (slang for modern) in terms of fashion quite sooner than other major cities.

Gautam Kalra, a 1991 DU graduate mentions,

80’s was all about loud fashion, neons, permed hair, bleached hair, plastic jewellery. Students wore a lot of unaesthetic synthetic clothing. 1991-1993, then I went to Delhi School of Economics for post-grad – which was more intellectual and saw a lot of toppers from Presidency college & Stephens. The vibe was Anti-fashion with tailor-made trousers clad nerdy under-dressed people sporting jhola bags and reading glasses. I however continued serving individuality and wore the then cool Bermuda shorts with T-shirts, fake ysL blue reading glasses, plenty of colour and denim”.

The popularity of flared pants and bell bottoms waned towards late 80s and was replaced by straight-fit or bootcut trousers. The 80s and 90s also witnessed an overwhelmingly crazy obsession with denim jeans. George Michael’s typical cross jetted pocketed loose jeans and the multi-pocketed ones were the most sought after styles in denim. 90s brought in the obsession with Salman Bhai’s shirtless look with tattered baggy jeans on in O O Jaane Jana. DU students usually wore jeans from indigenous brands like wrangler or locally sourced them from second-hand markets in Sarojini. International brands like Benetton and Levis became popular among the youth only after mid 90s, post liberalization.

We didn’t really have the kind of influencers you have today on Social Media. We derived our fashion inspiration from movie actresses and pop icons of our time. Luckily for us stereotypically skinny framed girls, Sonali Bendre popularized the ‘skinny’ body type. Madhuri was definitely a cult favorite in the 90s”, says an alumna of Hindu College, Batch’92

This obsession with Madhuri Dixit is implicit in the fact that in the early 90s, almost everyone was trying to emulate her shoulder length, wavy, voluminous, side portioned puff. The impact Madhuri’s purple lehenga with it’s backless blouse in ‘Hum Aapke hai kaun’ was ineffable to the extent that most girls insisted on wearing a similar design for their farewells and other college functions.

The movie “Aashiqui” was all the rage in early 90s. The amount of influence the movie had on everyone back then was overwhelmingly crazy. All the boys in a bid to look like Rohan Roy started maintaining a longer mane and the girls would run to the local tailor to improvise their own versions of Anu Agarwal’s famous white lace navy blue dress. Her polka dots net ribbons had a separate fan base altogether.

Jeans were in, shirts without sleeves were in, but crop tops or any shirts that showed the stomach were still a bold fashion statement. I was rather a plain Jane. So I knew little about makeup and fashion trends. But, Kajal, lipsticks and liners were always a staple for most. Reebok, Adidas sports shoes and Woodland were the flavours of the season”, says Sarika Salil, an English (Hons.) graduate from Hansraj College, Batch’97.

She continues to highlight the darker side of this flourishing period of fashion in India,

People were body-shamed openly and brazenly. Anyone who was considered ‘fat’ according to the rigid beauty standards had to stick to the ‘conservative’ fashion trends, and donned only salwar kameez. They avoided jeans and short blouses because of the persistent comments on their bodies”.

90s was also the time when Aviators gained huge love among the youngsters – especially men. This love can greatly be attributed to Tom Cruise’s look in Top Gun. Only some could afford the real OG Raybans aviators, others managed it with dupes. Women bought more of oval shaped, narrow framed sunglasses. These have made a comeback in recent years. Around this time, the baggy multi-pocketed denims had been discarded for high waist straight-fit bootcut jeans. The aesthetic became cleaner and more sophisticated.

Devika Ahluwalia, who graduated from Venkys in the summer of 98’ remarks,

‘Fashion’ in college for me was on the one hand about kohlapuri chappals and comfy kurtas to slightly cropped belly button showing cotton sleeveless tops over comfy pants. Mismatched laces on cloth trainers (not sure I could afford Converse then) along with shirts tied at the waist over a flared skirt made sense to me at the time. As did cutting off the bottom of t-shirts to make them shorter”,

she continues

Sarojini Nagar export clothes reject market was a monthly hang out for good fashion reject bargains. My hair was long and not “styled” and a pencil was used when I tied it into a bun. Silver jewellery passed/gifted to me by my sister was a part of my daily look. As was kajal and slightly thin eyebrows. Going out at night meant borrowing clothes from friends who had the access to their ‘abroad’ shopping. Tight short skirts and even tighter tops came out of the closet for those times”.

The 2Ks were an era of tube tops, low rise denims, Aishwarya’s dressy dainty micro tops, Poo’s sexy fusion of indo-western elements, the tiniest mini-skirts, natural looking blow dried hair and dangly earrings. All thanks to Juicy’s tracksuits popularized by Britney, the Kardashians and Paris Hilton; and in the Indian context Karishma’s outfits in Dil toh Pagal hai and SRKs wardrobe from Kuch Kuch Hota Hai resulted in a new found love for athleisure. Late 90s and early 2000s was also the golden period for India in International pagents. Back to back wins by Diana Hayden, Yukta Mookhey, Lara Dutta, Priyanka Chopra and Dia Mirza. There was a global recognition and acknowledgement of the Indian beauties globally. Their fashion etiquettes and aesthetics were largely emulated by young college going women. The 2000s also saw a crazy obsession with the front hair being styled into a pouf. Everyone was getting their hair cut into steps or layers.

The DU fashion trends while segueing it’s way into the early 2010s from 2Ks transitioned from bootcut to strechy skinny jeans, low rise to high waisted multiple buttoned denims, from glossy liquid lipsticks to baby lips, crop tops to T-shirts, pencil heels to wedges. Jeggings replaced jeans and was worn under kurtas or loose T-shirts. Short kurtis with harem pants, Punjabi juttis paired with silver jhumkas and bangles from lajpat or janpath was the new staple in DU colleges.

We were obsessed with using baby lips and excessive Kajal. We had luckily stopped with the puffs in 2012 but the side parting was huge. Jeggings and crop tops were fashion in 2015-16”, says Selina, an alumna of Lady Irwin College, Batch’2016.

Today’s DU fashion is an astounding amalgamation of fashion aesthetics of different decades, cultures and identities. From the effortlessly chic clean girl activewear, to Y2ks big pants small tops, big T-shirts small shorts, kurta and pajama, crop tops and pajamas, summer midi dresses, dark academia inspired deep shade pleated skirts, Sarojini ke jhumke, Lajpat’s western jewellery, from nike sneakers to ‘kohlapuri chappals’ from janpath to crocs, from H&M, Zara apparels to their dupes and rejects from Sarojini, – us DU students can style all of these effortlessly.

Fashion today is not a mere display of vanity or simply about putting on random trending pieces of clothing. Yes, we do feed on trends and contribute to the fast fashion capitalist economy in a lot of ways, but still, Fashion today has a lot more to do with self-expression, comfort and acceptance.

Fashion for me is acceptance. It is finding solace in the fact, especially in an all-girls college, that no matter what you wear, no one will judge you. There’s always going to be someone more over-dressed or under-dressed than you are. One can walk into the campus wearing a saree and no one will bother, one only appreciates”, says Dolijung Negi, a final year student from LSR.

A lot of current DU students agree that the fashion today doesn’t necessarily coerce one into opting into a particular vertical of trend, but instead, thanks to the diversity in aesthetics one doesn’t necessarily feel alienated and ends up discovering their own fashion sense and learns to celebrate it’s uniqueness.

Rubani Sandhu

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Auburn Umbrella: Fad or Fab – Sorting the Underrated and the Overrated in Fashion

By DU Beat August 31, 2023

Now that trends influence everyone’s style, let’s finally separate the hype from the real deal.

I’m playing fashion police today- waving goodbye to trends that are potentially tired while giving some overdue love to the seriously underrated ones. Let’s set things straight once and for all.

Overrated fashion trends-

Birkenstocks- These iconic sandals have been the epitome of comfortable footwear for a very long time. However, their chunky design makes it hard to integrate them with most outfits. So, while they’re definitely made out of quality material, the prices aren’t justified for a sandal used for casual wear.
Sheer clothing- This provides the opportunity to play around with layers and textures which could be so fun! But, the comfort and practicality of sheer clothing is questionable. They can prove to be itchy and the synthetic materials are not very environmentally friendly either.
Mini sunglasses- These are a departure from traditional eyewear by far. Indeed, they are more about making a statement than functionality but it’s impossible to see properly in them, let alone walk. Big yay for the look and all the fun colours they come in, but utility garners negative marks.
Statement sneakers- The debate about their place on this list would be an intense one. While I agree with (and even partake in) sneakerhead culture, some designs are clearly more about flashiness and prestige than quality and comfort. While a good pair can transform a look for the better, a flashy one could push it slightly into the tacky category.

Underrated fashion trends-

Dad shoes- ‘Dad’ shoes are those that are not necessarily considered very stylish but provide unparalleled comfort. They are the most ideal choice for extended periods of walking and their resurgence in recent times is a testament to a shift in fashion priorities, where comfort is taking precedence. It’s great to have an awesome sneaker collection but also get yourself some of these. Dads have always known best.
Neutral tones- They deserve more recognition instead of being considered boring. Neutral colours exude understated elegance and should be staples in our wardrobes. They are easy to style and serve as the perfect backdrop for statement accessories.
Timeless prints- Their appeal lies in being a reliable option for both formal and casual outfits. They have stood the test of time and their charm goes beyond that of passing fads such as animal prints. Most of them are eternally relevant but I’m still not so sure about polka dots, though.
Fanny packs- The outdated designs have been revamped in recent times and are incredibly convenient. While I am a fan of tote bags, having to fish for my keys for 5 minutes is not fun. Fanny packs are thus a great accessory for on-the-go lifestyles.

Fashion has always existed as a means to express yourself. None of it could ever be the ‘wrong’ way to do it. Obviously, it’s important to wear what you like and are comfortable in. While certain trends may not resonate with everyone, they still contribute to the fashion landscape. If you like Birkenstocks and are rocking them, good for you! But do yourself a favour and buy some Dad shoes today.

Featured image credits: Pinterest

Arshiya Pathania

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The DU-Fied Rizz

By DU Beat August 2, 2023

This article is an op-ed about the statement dressing observed across the Delhi university, what it essentially symbolizes and potentially offers to the society in general.

The unanimous euphoria every girl felt in the washroom of the Barbie movie premiere over pink couldn’t help but make me think about this one another symbolic yet statement dressing unifying a large cohort ,that being the “DU dress code”.

What feels like being in the bluepilled matrix of the “bonkers-ification” of college outfits, the raging monopoly of H&M and Zara with their Sarojini Dupes, or the razzmatazz of fast fashion outlets in Kamala Nagar or Janpath, essentially paints a larger picture of what happens to be the “DU-fied rizz”, it’s not about how many times your typical slogan printed tote bag slides off your shoulder, it’s about pulling it back up. It’s about the constant euphoria-esque serve with the statement face paint art at Fests. It’s about finding the perfect faux Pas between upper east side vogue and the fawning desi attires. It’s oxidised Janpath earrings, artsy witch core septum piercings, chikankari kurta slay, MKT thrifts and what not.

It portrays itself with a certain sense of irony how you can easily identify the DU brigade dressed in the spectrum ranging from fab India khaki kurta simpletons to lulu & sky corsets bearing baddies, right from the oversized shirt over tanks and wide legged trousers to the artisanal bangle clad kurti endowed individuals.

More than a sense of fashion, it’s a statement, one that brings together chic with sustainability. Sarojini becomes a high fashion substitute, thrifting becomes the new currency and locally grown businesses the warble call for styling enthusiasts. At the risk of generalizing the human experience curve we have achieved what appears to be a unified assertion of what fashion doesn’t necessarily have to be, it remains to be an inclusive domain for expression of identities. Ofcourse the situation Is far from ideal, arguments in favour of elitist bias, bullying and harassment claims and the general lack of tolerance for the “chalk and cheese” fashion statements continue to exist but from the standpoint of observing the bigger picture it does feel like that Delhi University as an institution offers space to harbour the fraternity of the fashion diaspora that seems to have become a hallmark in identifying the university’s culture by and large.

https://m.timesofindia.com/city/delhi/for-exams-du-fashion-goes-from-chic-to-geek/articleshow/52280156.cms

Featured Image credits: DU Updates

Priya Shandilya

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Netflix and Nap: A Tempestuous Allure

By DU Beat April 11, 2022

It’s tempting to fall into unhealthy habits, but a balanced lifestyle is the key to a vibrant college life.

One enters college with an abundance of excitement, hope, and the most fun of them all, freedom. While this freedom provides opportunities for growth, it also brings with it a sense of carelessness. When you’re no longer answerable to Mom, you let loose. In most college students, this leads to the rise of some unhealthy habits. Being able to stay in bed and Zomato all the time may seem like a dream come true at first, but it inevitably invites problems.

However, that is not the only factor that could lead to the development of an unhealthy lifestyle. It’s also easy to feel so drowned in assignments, society work, or internships that there’s no room left for exercise or any hobbies for that matter. After a hectic college day, there is nothing more inviting than your bed. With an episode of your current binge and some pizza on the side. This becomes a routine that’s hard to break out of.

“The appeal of the taste of fast food is not the only thing that has kept me in the habit of ordering in almost every night. It’s also very convenient to not have to prep or cook meals. It feels like a quick fix after a long day.” -Vansh, a second-year student

Moreover, “broke college student” is a famous phrase for a reason. When short on budget, cooking the same instant ramen pack a few different ways to get through the week is appealing. Thus, many factors contribute to the rise of unhealthy eating habits among college students. Another major problem is that of little to no exercise. It’s difficult to make time for a routine. The norm of going late to bed and having to wake up early for morning classes keeps one in the cycle of feeling tired throughout the day. Pulling all-nighters consistently and then drinking tons of coffee to survive, skipping meals, and not exercising are therefore common elements of a college student’s lifestyle. The allure of it all is heavy. But this lifestyle is unfortunately not sustainable. How do we beat it?

It’s important to start at the fundamental level and correct your basics. Build your day around a healthy sleep schedule, eat at the right time, and start incorporating at least some exercise throughout the week. As cliché as this might sound, your elders are correct. Doing this will significantly improve your quality of life and help you focus better on your goals. You don’t need some rigid instruction table to help you achieve all of this. Start slow and be soft with yourself. It’s also okay to maintain some flexibility. You do not need to cut Netflix or McDonald’s out of your life (duh, how could we ever?). Just practice moderation with it.

“After college hours, it feels unsafe for me to travel to and from a gym in the city. So, I’ve made it a point to wake up a little extra early in the mornings to do yoga. This way I get some exercise done every single day.” -Gauri, a second-year student at KNC.

While waking up early is definitely not the best suit for many of us, here are some things that you can do to start living a better and healthier life. When you get hunger pangs at odd hours, have fruits for snacks instead of reaching for a packet of chips. They’re yummy and healthy, plus super convenient to grab. Replace your caffeinated beverages with better alternatives that also serve as a refresher, such as milkshakes. When you do need to order in, pick healthier options as opposed to fast foods. For exercise, try to include movement in the little day-to-day tasks. Walk around on your study break instead of sitting in bed. Take the stairs instead of elevators wherever possible (the metro station maybe?). Discover a safe road/park near you and go for the occasional walk while on the phone with family or friends.

There are innumerable little ways you could create a better lifestyle for yourself. Making conscious choices regarding nutrition and exercise will take care of you both physically and mentally, improving academic performance and overall quality of life. Pave the way for a balanced and fulfilling college experience that sets you up for success in the long run. Cheers to doing better!

Featured Image Source: Pinterest

Arshiya Pathania

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High Heels: Dreams, Taunts and What nots

By DU Beat January 15, 2022

To the heels I bought with my limited savings from last month, as the perpetually broke college student that I am, I wish I knew that visiblising queerness comes at a social price.

Manifesting queerness had always been on my list of things I had to do in college. When things, without any notice, went online, it bothered me because in my head college was going to be only a little more than me strutting in with the trendiest indie fashion pieces, a feminist poetry collection in hand, and a Matisse or New Yorker tote in the other. But fashion statements come at a cost and this time there was the added interest of a pandemic too.

Upon hearing the news of the much-awaited re-opening, I rushed with two friends to Hudson Lane and walked into three different shops – before buying a comfortable heel that not only matched the image in my head but also fit.. Even as I tried out the shoes, I could feel the eyes of the shopkeeper on me. It is for a friend who is flying in, I remember saying to just avoid being value judged by an abject stranger.

But if the shopkeeper was a stranger I was willing to lie to, people in my college were too large in numbers to even respond. And, being a dream that I had nurtured for the longest while, this was a question I was more than willing to engage with. The online college had limited my interactions with a select few people scattered across the college, people who I thought would point towards my heels and say, Oh my god! You did it? or with an air of abject sympathy say, Aren’t those hurting? Do you have band-aids?

Appraisal and sympathy are west winds that comfort the length and breadth of your skin upon touch. But what I was unprepared for was walking into my canteen quarters and being faced with groups of bulked up men from the northern quarters of our country, taking stalk of my heels coupled with my ajrak shirts and small rainbow pendants – just to turn back and initiate a pungent and viral smirk that would birth a sense of hateful sense of directed towards my end.

There would of course be the whispers – annoying to an extent that you know you are being spoken of but you hardly have the courage in your system to walk up to them and ask, in absolute De Niro style, are you talking to me? The first few days of offline college makes you realise that truly the online space is a created bubble wrap of people who are tailored to be decent to you, as opposed to the offline front which throws open the possibilities of being sucked into a whirlwind of heterogeneous socio-cultural capital holders where being the other comes at the cost of scrutiny on the altar of toxic masculinity.

The North campus too, with all its red bell towers and granite pillars, is a divided world in itself. The world of Ramjas is characterised by muted warm colours and gazes that make you hit home the realisation that you’re abjectly out of place – that you don’t belong and you never will. Cross the road and on the other side, outside JP Stall you’ll find a queer visual haven where wearing H&M and carrying Starbucks with neon painted into your hair – makes you no longer an object to be stared at but rather something desirous and aspirational.

Anwesh Banerjee

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Auburn Umbrella

Everyday College Fashion: Minimalist and Affordable

By DU Beat March 15, 2020

When it comes to dressing up for college, what a student looks for is something that’s easy but also cool, classy, quick and inexpensive. Minimalism is just that.

A minimalist closet is one of the most effective ways to save time and money when getting dressed. It refers to paring down your closet, full of essentials until you have a whole host of easy-to-recreate outfits at your disposal. Online fashion communities use a fancy term – capsule wardrobe for such a versatile collection of clothes that can be used on an everyday basis.

A plain or graphic t-shirt, simply styled with black jeans and white/black sneakers is so effortlessly stylish. While girls can experiment with knots and tucked-in styles, guys must try pairing a cap or bagpack. Minimalism fashion is often misconceived to be all about black, white or grey shades. Whilst these are the go-to palettes for a minimalist look, it is not always the case. Even bright colours like yellow, pink, orange, blue or red can work well when they are simple in design or similar in tone. Tone-on-tone, as they call it, is a more exciting way to explore the trend of minimalism.

White works as a good base for all colour palettes. Credits: Komal Pandey, Ranveer Allahbadia via Instagram

Here is a list of clothes that you should have in your wardrobe and not stress about what to wear to college everyday because it’ll be just enough. These are very basic pieces available across online and offline shops for cheap and affordable prices. Remember to not over hoard.

Kurtas

Kurta and jeans is not a new revelation, it is literally the OG Dilli University style statement. For boys, kurtas over pants, jeans and even pyjamas does the thing. Similarly for girls, kurtis of all kinds – short, peplum, solid or printed look so effortlessly pretty with bottoms of all kinds – palazzos, pants, skirts and even shorts.

Shirts & T-shirts

T-shirts and tops are probably the most comfortable piece of clothing one can own; perfect for everyday wear. Have a bunch of these and wear them interchangeably! You can find a variety of colours and fit at Decathlon stores.

From formal college presentations to wearing it casually, shirts can be used more often than you think. Checked shirts never go out of style; they’re a classic and come in million variants. Boys, most simply can wear them with denims or pants, and even open-buttoned with a plain tee inside. For girls, a white shirt especially, layered over a printed tank top or tucked into a chic skirt, goes a long way.

Dresses and Skirts

Girls out there, a dress is literally the laziest thing you can wear and still look amazing! It is a one stylized item that you can throw on and look instantly put-together. As for skirts, find what’s comfortable to you and experiment with prints and textures. These are two pieces that can survive your day-to-night look. Dress down with a pair of sneakers for the lecture and dress up with heels or boots for a party.

Skirts and dresses are the go-to for girls during summer months.Credits: Jenna Jacobs via Instagram — Skirts and dresses are the go-to for girls during summer months. Credits: Jenna Jacobs via Instagram

Jeans

This is the most obvious but necessary item for every college going student. Invest in one or two solid pairs of jeans because they can go with literally everything. Boyfriend jeans are the ideal denim choice due to their comfortable fit. They look absolutely chic and casual on girls when paired up with feminine pieces like printed blouses or simply tank tops.

Perfect for university, here are a few tips and tricks to ace your style game with the bare minimal clothing items in your capsule wardrobe.

Bag

This one’s a no-brainer. You need one bag that is sturdy to carry your load of books and other college stuff. Tote bags are pretty comfortable and fashionable too.

Layering

Layering is no more a season specific trick. Pairing up jackets or shrugs (denim, khaki or textured) with a basic inner layer is so effortless. A patterned or solid shirt is a great alternative too. Use the scarves, dupattas and stoles as add ons!

A still from Piku, effortless and comfortable outfit idea for college. Credits: Bollystyle

Accessorize

Accessorizing for boys can include watches, caps, scarfs etc. You don’t need to go extra but wear these casually. Experiment with colours, go beyond the darker shades.

For girls, dainty or junk jhumkas, neckpieces and bindis are ever popular accessories that can add the bling to your outfit. And not just jewellery, you can play with caps, baker boy hats or bandanas to edge a regular college look.

On your feet

Sneakers, low-top shoes, converse and sliders are a few comfy yet edgy footwears that you can wear to college. Do not go for all of these, pick what’s most comfortable for you since you will be on your toes throughout the day.

Outfits curated with very basic pieces, for all kinds of days at college. Credits: Saurav Nagar via Instagram

Look effortless and edgy, it’s all about feeling yourself. Credits: Sejal Kumar via Instagram

Incorporating minimalistic pieces like these in everyday fashion can make one look effortlessly good, for it is all about comfort, lightweight materials, easy-throw-on pieces – just simple basics with a tiny twist. When it comes to everyday fashion, less really does say more.

Feature Image Credits: Pinterest

Aishwaryaa Kunwar

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The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Right Frame

By DUBeat February 17, 2020

To assist your indecisiveness, here’s your ultimate manual to choosing the correct frame with accordance to your needs.

There are majorly three kinds of framing structure under which myriads of other specific frames fall in categorization with. These are full-rimmed, half-rimmed, and rimless. If you wish for eyes to be the focal point then you would want a full rimmed structure which outlines the lenses completely. If you wish to emphasise your upper half of the face, semi-rimmed is your pick. These frames outline the lens partially and thereby leave it to be more susceptible to scratches. If your priority is a lightweight frame then you may go rimless, which is not heavy on your nose but most susceptible to damage.

The variety of frames which are available in the above-mentioned formats are as follows:

1) Round glasses:

Image Credits: Ray ban

Harry Potter led phenomenon of round glasses, gained quite a popularity and since then these frames are quite trendy among the quirky guys. These glasses vary in the size of circular circumference, colour and rim preference.

2) The Aviators:

Image credits: Ray-Ban

Adapted from the shape of sunglasses, aviator eyeglasses are large teardrop structured glasses which have been the go-to choice for people who wish to experiment with fashion. These glasses apart from being available in all rim formats also get innovated with every new fad to give the most trendy outlook.

3) Cat Eye frames

Image credits: Amazon.in

The sexy cat-eye frames are the perfect choice for people with narrow foreheads and prominent features. These frames have a broad and bold lining on the top and slightly narrower details on the bottom line. The style which makes these frames distinctive is its upward tapering. So, if you are in a search of something with a slightly vintage touch accompanied by a fashionable look, cat-eye is just for you.

4) Square glasses

Image credits: AliExpress

The chic square glasses worn by the simple innocent girl in every rom-com, which eventually comes out as a real hottie are a soft corner for many. These glasses work wonders for those with slightly round-ish or oval face structures, the edgy look makes a perfect balance with their inherent curvy look. Also unlike the rom-com lead, black and square is not a necessity you can choose a colour which suits your complexion or matches your attire.

5) Rectangular glasses

Image Credits: Readers.com

Talk about trendy without the mention of rectangular frames is impossible. Whether sharp or curved edged they never fall back in adding appeal to your personality. A strong recommendation for those with round or oval face. Where sharp-edged rectangular represent sporty the curve edged provides a relatively softer look.

Feature Image Credits: Pinterest

Kriti Gupta

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Umaima Khanam

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