Getting Started with Long Exposure Photography

A camera with a manual and bulb mode is the first equipment required for long exposure photography. However, to be able to use a slow shutter speed (which is what long exposure photography is all about), you need a camera that allows you to manually adjust the ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. It doesn’t have to be anything fancy, an entry level camera will do just fine. Bulb mode is another option that is beneficial for your camera to have. With this mode selected (it’s located in different places on different cameras), you can expose an image for as long as you want. Basically, as long as you hold the shutter button triggered, the camera continues to take the image. [Image Credits: Snapdeal]

A tripod is essential for any type of landscape photography but when dealing with slow shutter speeds, it’s hard to work without one. Simply leaning the camera on a fence or laying it on a rock really limits your flexibility and, of course, the stability of your camera. You don’t need to spend thousands of rupees on the best tripods available but avoid getting the cheapest aluminum ones from the local electronic shop. Make sure that the tripod you choose is sturdy enough to be used in a river with rushing water, or when the weather is windy. [Image Credits: B&H]

Neutral density filters are darkened filters that are placed in front of the lens, requiring a slower shutter speed for the same amount of light to reach the sensor. There are two systems available: screw-in and drop-in or square filters. The filters come in different strengths (3-stop, 6-stop, 10-stop, etc.) which describe how much you need to lengthen the exposure time to maintain a well-exposed image. These filters require you to lengthen the exposure time for the same amount of light to reach the camera’s sensor in order to get a well-exposed image. The filters are darkened and their strength dictates how much you need to slow down the shutter speed. Compared to doing this without filters, using an natural density filter allows you to use a much longer exposure time while still maintaining optimal quality (the sharpest aperture of your lens). [Image Credits: Amazon]

A remote shutter isn’t a necessity to achieve a long exposure photo but it is going to make the process much easier. When doing long exposure photography, you often have to work with quickly changing elements (such as rushing waves). In these scenarios, you want to be able to capture the image at the exact moment the moving element is where you want it to be and can’t afford to wait an additional two seconds for the self-timer to go off. [Image Credits: Amazon]

To get started, place your camera on a tripod and focus the lens to infinity. You'll want to use a cable release to eliminate camera shake of any kind, as it will ruin your photo. Set the camera to B "Bulb" shooting mode and set your aperture between f/2.8 - f/4 for optimal results. Depress the remote to open the shutter. The main thing to keep in mind while deciding on the correct exposure is how to capture both the shadows as well as the highlights. If you are successful in obtaining the right shadows, you will be able to produce an excellent night scene that will win you compliments. When taking long exposures, the key is to keep the shutter open only long enough for the desired effect. If you keep the shutter open too long, you’ll lose the details in whatever light source is illuminating your subject, and you might even lose the ability to identify what the subject is. When trying to create a light trail, the shutter should be open for at least one second, and therefore requires a tripod. Use shutter priority mode and start with one second shutter speed and see what the result is. If the trail is too short, add two seconds, and then keep adding 2 seconds until you get the lighting effect that you want. If there is too much blur, then your shutter was open too long, and you need to dial it back down maybe a full second.